Every year on 21 September, Salerno stops.

The day belongs to San Matteo - apostle, evangelist and patron saint - whose relics were brought to the city in 954 and placed in the crypt of the cathedral in 1081. By late afternoon, the streets begin to fill. At six o'clock, the silver statue of San Matteo leaves the Duomo, carried through the historic centre and along the city's main streets. Accompanying it are the statues of San Giuseppe, San Gregorio VII - who died in Salerno in 1085 - and the three early Christian martyrs Ante, Gaio and Fortunato, affectionately known as le tre sorelle, the three sisters, despite being male saints. The portantini, the men who carry the statues on their shoulders, often inherit the role from their fathers and grandfathers.

In 1544, according to local tradition, Salerno was saved from an attack by Saracen pirates when a sudden storm struck their fleet. The city's deliverance was attributed to San Matteo, giving rise to a promise still remembered today: Salerno è mia, io la difendo. Salerno is mine. I will defend it. The words appear on the Panno di San Matteo, a ceremonial banner raised in the cathedral atrium every 21 August, marking the beginning of the celebrations.

The procession returns to the cathedral later in the evening, while the festivities continue towards midnight with fireworks over the sea. Along the streets, the smell of 'a meveza 'mbuttunata - stuffed spleen, slow-cooked with vinegar, parsley and chilli - recalls another tradition closely associated with the feast.